You can take a kettle or toster but as said before it may overload the circiuit. You will have to use these one at a time. Not sure whether mines faulty or whether I'm missing something, but having tested it out on a couple of electric points at the campsite we're staying at Hadrian's Wall - V. The user guide appears to be missing but I've followed the instructions on the side of the box and the equipment itself. Its says to test it press the reset button and a red light should come on.
You then have to press the T button below it and the red light should go off, and its ok to use. Has anyone else experienced this problem? The campsite has electric and my friend is making up a lead to plug into it, he is good with electrics.. Inside the tent we want to use an extension lead however I have read the posts and most of you gus seem to reccomend one of the units with the RCDs or trip switches on. My question is because we have spent quite a lot on the tent itself would an RCD adapter plug such as the following be suitable if we plug the extension flex which will be inside the tent into this Ted, you apparently have the right coloured cable however the wires should be 2.
To comply with regs the distribution end of the cable should have a twin pole RCD and twin pole MCB's before going to the required no of sockets. It should also be reasonably weather proof at least IP You are right Mike, but often what you plug into doesn't have an RCD on the bollard, particularly abroad. I do not recall seeing an RCD on an electric hook up bollard.
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Yes the bollards will or should be protected by an RCD, presumably at a distribution board. You will not be popular with the campsite warden because they have to reset or fellow campers if you trip out the supply to several caravans because you do not have an RCD. RCD's will have a test switch to short the live to earth and induce an imbalance between live and neutral. They will be marked as being an RCD. I was of course referring to those bollards which clearly have trip switches which can be seen through a perspex window.
I won't assume again but I do presume most people have a touch of common sense and a few grey cells in their noddles and wouldn't start trying to dismantle a pillar as shown in the link I don't see why folding campers and especially tents should be any different. If you have electrical equip;ment with this level of safety it doesn't matter if you connect to a bollard with or without an RCD and you are not going to cause any inconvenience to others. Having this level of equipment also saves you the hassle of inspecting or asking if RCD's are fitted when booking a campsite.
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Me and the OH like to go camping and until now we have managed with out the luxury of electricity, however as our camping trips are getting longer and longer we nedd to invest in an EHU. All we will be pluggin in is the cool box and the occasional phone charger or hair dryer I am a woman and i will not have frizzy hair.
I have read all the advice and have gone for Towsure's 3 ext EHU. We need an outlet in Devon!!. Thanks for your advice. I meant to say -someone i know used one of those cheap e-bay ones and it started smelling of electrical burning one dewy morning Our extension lead does not have an RCD. I was thinking of buying one from Ebay and fitting it in-line. My question is where do you fit the in-line device along the cable. Do you fit it near the extension lead end so it is in the tent or near the electric hook up connector so it is outside the tent or smack bang in the middle.
I will research a bit more before I make a decision on either buying a new one or modifying the existing one. As for info on it, I dont really know that much other than what I've read in this thread. I ended up buying a Pyramid EHU of ebay in the end!. Hi all, while searching for a good EHU unit for the past year , i came across this and instantly bought it, 1st time ive come across a 2 plug EHU, but its all me and my OH will require on our holidays in the lakes. I'm after a 3 gang where the sockets are sideways like a home 3 gang extension and not a vertical one like usual.
Anyone any ideas please It still trips during the day if we only have the fridge plugged in. At a loss to understand why it works perfect all night? Sounds silly but its like during the day when it is hot in the tent the thing just trips constantly: Dont want to show ignorance lol think its the MCB that trips is that the double blue switch on the unit?? If the kettle proves to be OK then unplug it and plug in any other appliance you use during the day to check them out one at a time.
It could be that during the night it is stationary and during the day you are moving it and there is a loose connection. If doing all the above proves inconclusive then ,to be on the safe side ,perhaps it may be advisable to purchase a new one,,however if it is the MCB that is tripping it is normally caused by something that is plugged in.
Thanks for that image: Will try what you suggest and hopefully that will rectify without the need to purchase a new unit. IP66 is a quite stringent standard. I never liked the common IP44 versions, they obviously have the RCD but I didnt like how the plugs were open when inserted. We've just returned from France where I've seen some of the worst hook-up bodges ever.
Been thinking on going EHU mainly for a heater as I'm a bit of a cold ass. What does everyont run off their EHU??? If you are intent on making a lead up for a caravan then assuming that the van has an RCD and MCB fitted you would need one male as shown in the Ad and one female one for the caravan end and the cable should be rubber insulated for outdoor use at v to specification HO7RN-F. Up to now we've been experienced campers operating without any EHU. Having trawled through a lot of this thread, there is a lot of confusion about what is appropriate equipment or not as the case may be.
It's just that I get a lot of satisfaction from knowing I can build the stuff rather than buying something 'Made in China'. Perhaps this is worthy of some discussion some other time. For you and me, any EHU must conform to the following. If any of these aren't met, then you run the risk of injury or death.
Remember, if an accident happens and a competent person looked at your gear and decided it was non-conformant, then you would lose any claim to accident compensation via the site's Public Liability Insurance. For me, that's a risk not worth taking, so make sure your EHU kit complies with the following:. Socket outlet on site's supply panel not less than 16A higher could be possible. Total current requirement can be roughly calculated by adding up the total wattage of your equipment kettle, toaster, electric blanket etc used at the same time the 'Maximum demand' and dividing that figure by volts.
Check that there is one socket outlet provided per pitch before you plug in if not, then the site is in violation of Reg Each socket outlet should be provided with overcurrent protection. This means that the site should have provision for some means of fuse or circuit breaker protection, but I wouldn't rely on this so you should have your own MCB in your EHU 10A or 16A. Each socket outlet shall have an RCD - must be 30mA with an operating time of less than 40ms at a residual current of 5 x I only an electrician with the right measurement kit can check if the RCD will trip at this current.
It's a requirement of the Regs that 'The device shall disconnect all live conductors including the neutral'. In practice for us on a 2 phase system, this means a 2 pole RCD live and neutral. The 'test' button on the RCD only tests the mechanical tripping action of the RCD - not that it will switch off at the specified fault current in the specified time. I guess for most people the tripping time of the RCD will be an unknown quantity unless I happen to meet you during one of my camping trips and I can test your RCD for you!
The connection from the site's electric outlet to the tent or caravan should comply with:. No more than 25m d minimum cross sectional area of the conductors of 2.
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This means that 1. So please avoid cheap E-Bay cables or you'll lose your right to claim compensation in the event of an accident or fire. Any enclosures, boxes etc should be IP44 rated as a minimum splashproof , with no holes for fingers to poke through AE2, small objects like kiddy fingers. Also some degree of mechnical stress protection is required impact, abrasion, penetration etc - perhaps not so important if you keep the socket end in a tent or camper.
I know the above is a bit long winded and I may have omitted something, but I thought it was worth approaching this topic from the side of the Wiring Regs. Please feel free to comment and add your questions. Even if they have included tents in the 17th edition provided they complied with the 16th edition when supplied the new regs wouldn't apply. I think it is long overdue that the Regs should apply to Campin hookups as a tent is a far riskier environment than a modern caravan. My post references 17th edition regs which I guess is what most campers would like to conform to when they buy EHU kit.
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You are correct that 16th edition doesn't cover tents, but where does that leave caravans with awnings, where power is carried into the awning? You are also correct that sites which conform to 16th Edition don't necessarily have to upgrade or conform to 17th - so they can carry on without RCDs on the distribution side. Personally, as an electrician and 'happy camper', I would not be reliant on any supply side protection given by the site, preferring to 'play safe' and have RCD and overcurrent protection in my tent. The 17th Edition BS Also, the regs covering underground cables also mentions tent pegs and ground anchors, so I think the intention in the regs is to cover camping.
In any event, I agree that the accident risk is much higher in tents, because of the nature of camping and the camping fraternity, so best practice must prevail.
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I would consider that any V electrics someone has inside a tent should be capable of sitting outside quite happily - pity some of the kit sold today doesn't stand up to this test. How many people have their RCD tested? I agree with everything you say but when it comes down to it most of the people buy to a price not a specification. So now I'm looking at an 'off the shelf' unit They are manufactured in Wales as part of a 'sustainability project' - maybe grant aided. Not one of the cables referred to in the link below which have been flooding the market. I have asked the cable question on the manufacturers - let's see if we get a reply.
I agree that BS Artic cable blue or yellow is Hi Okean - do you have a problem with your keyboard hitting adjacent letters? Anyway I get the gist of what you are saying. The RCD will only trip is there is an earth leakage imbalance usually caused by a fault. If the 'fuse' in the main junction box is tripping possibly a circuit breaker not a fuse , then this indicates someone is overloading taking more than 10 amps.
The RCD will be rated at a much higher current. I would have expected the local near your pitch circuit breaker to be tripping first, not in the main site distribution box. An RCD only detects leakage to earth and trips on very low current it won't trip on overload or short circuit conditions. It would suggest that the site doesn't have the capacity to cope with the maximum demand for the conditions.
A distribution system is designed to cope with a degree of diversity and can't cope with too many people using heaters at the same time any more than your house electrics would if you switched everything on at once. Hi, I am quite new post wise to this site so forgive me if I am posting in the wrong place. I have had a good look and can see alot on electric hookup but all links from members seem to lead to a 3 way socket in a straight line, I have been told that these can be a pain sometimes because you can always fit 3 plugs on them, although Im not sure I need 3 plugs at any one time anyway!
My husband wants to buy one of these Secondly the plug sockets are IP44 but the housing is IP40 which means the sockets are protected from water splashes etc when closed but the housing has no protection against water,. Thirdly they don't say what size cable it is,it should be 25mm on the plus side the cable used is BASEC approved unlike a lot of the others so it is a good quality cable. If the Delta unit has a 30 Ma RCD and the cable is 25mm then provided it is kept dry it isn't too bad.
The problem with a lot of the units on sale is they don't give the full spec in particular the cable size. The cable should be marked as per the link to drakauk ,very few meet that spec, however if you don't intend to go camping in sub zero temperatures frequently then most cables would be OK. The one linked to covers most spec required but they don't specify if the cable is is to BASEC standard.
I am a sparky an bought the Greenfield unit after a lot of research, including making my own unit which you can't do for a reasonable price - see my previous posts in this thread. The Greenfield unit is well made, although not totally waterproof IP44 , like most if not all EHU units on the market. Of which I have many lying around the house. In case you were going to - don't worry about replying to my qestion above. I've spent most of the day looking through the posts again missing the Grand Prix and Man U losing the title with the last kick of the season and seem to have found the answer on a seperate thread.
The answer in case you were wondering seems to be YES! Fab, now saved shed loads! Off down the pub for the "Anyone but Fergie" night. Just wondered what was the difference between the orange EHU leads and the yellow leads. I am assuming the blue lead is for caravans because have seen them listed as so on Ebay but don't know why they might be different. The official quality EHU lfead is only available in black as they are rubber and intended to withstand sub zero temperature.
However both the major camping clubs advocate using orange cable as it can be seen by those who may be cutting grass. I read the first few pages to learn the basics of what to look for in an EHU. So this product may be mentioned already in the many pages I have skipped. In short have I paid attention to the points made by the experienced members?
Did not realise the ebay one was a Crusader. If I had spotted that prior to posting earlier, I wouldn't of bothered. As Crusader's are mentioned by others as being OK. Will compare prices, as I am in no real rush to get one. Need to have a localish test run with my new tent first before planning the rest of I have read through this thread and am getting confused. Happy to pay what is needed for a safe unit. Also appreciate that need to limit what is plugged into this - is there a travel type fan heater that can be used in a tent?
Hi I have trawled through so many links about EHU and its made me more paranoid: One of the sites we go to is 6amp - the greenfield one is 16amp but presuming I don't plug in more than 6amp this will be fine??? You divide the watts by the volts and the result is the amps drawn, eg: I've been patiently searching through all 40 pages relating to EHUs looking for an answer but no such luck: My question is we are camping in France this year on a site with 6amp EHU.
From peoples experience, if this was the only thing running, would this be ok? I'd hate to drag it all the way over there for it to not work. More than happy to stock the 12v fridge daily of course, only the small fridge would be even more of a bonus! Not sure if it's national but she did say that she was away to change it on the computer.
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I assumed this meant it was 'on' but after reading the information leaflet I know I should have read it first! I saw that the light being on meant there was a fault. Hubby said it was fine but I don't want to risk using it again if we have a faulty EHU - I had read about reverse polarity on here and wondered if that was the cause of the light but I thought that only happened outside the UK - can anyone shed some light on this for me.
I really don't want to use it again but not sure what to say to Halfords if it is faulty without sounding like I don't know what I am talking about! I asked the French campsite the following questions, and below are their answers. Polarity is only for direct current. I'd be so grateful for guidance, thanks. Advice and queries on all camping and caravanning, and outdoor equipment from airbeds to fridges! This topic has been pinned as it's a subject that comes up often. If you have a question about EHU leads, sockets or connections please read through this thread first, then post on the end of it if necessary anyone thought of using one of these?
Hairy Rod Date Posted: I think my views on these "lash ups" are well known by members who have been here a while. Even the "propper" tent EHU's leave a lot to be desired but unless you are electricaly competent these would be your best bet. BUT most of these instalations are mounted under hoods or angled down. To be safe you would be recomended to look for an IP rating of at least IP55 or better. Rob Johns Date Posted: Good luck - and be safe!
It doesn't appear to be any different from what I have: The RCD is there to trip in case of any inbalance in the current flow. It will trip on a current greater than it's rating. Thanks for the info Posted By: I'm sorry, I'm still new and learning from you peeps all the time. I'm also avoiding doing an essay so I'm net-shopping: On a campsite hookup bear in mind they will have a current limit, over which it will trip, meaning your electric will turn off, and you will need to reset it.
These can vary from site to site, and normally range from around 6 amps to 16 amps Because of that you need to ensure you don't have too many high wattage items on at once. Your home kettle will normally be fine as long as you dont use it at the same time as say a fan heater, so if you had one going it would be a good idea to turn off the heater before turning on the kettle.
Your tele, phone charger, lights etc will be fine, as they only draw a small current. Hope that helps Cheers Ian Posted By: Thanks, Ian Posted By: I got one of these on ebay Divide the Watts by to give amps. Rule of thumb then is to try and keep maximum load to W or less. RCD this has a test button on it and trips when you press it. Under normal circumstances should NOT trip if it does there is an EARTh fault some where, current is flowing to earth and it shouldn't! To reset either device just push the lever to the ON position. You probably have a very similar set up in your home The one that always trips when a bulb goes?
If the device trips again straight away there is a fault some where.
That's a good price too! Only drawback is that looks like the type with vertical sockets, some complain that the centre socket is difficult to use. Where do other folk clip or hang their EHU units if they have non-frame tents? Daniel B Date Posted: Sorry for the simpleton questions. This is the only equipment, other than the apllicances themselves, that you would need to have electric in your tent. The most common version of this is the one with the vertical sockets. I have never understood why because the horizontal version of the sockets seems more popular.
The only place I have seen that sells the horizontal version at least from a short look around , is http: Would I be right in thinking that, with the UK adaptor, it could be used outside at home? I think Argos do a cheap one 10m I think. Fly Guy Date Posted: The reason no one can say for definate is that it really depends on the age of the site. If you need any more info do not hesitate to ask. Can someone else confirm? I thought it was not suitable but thought i would check.
Please let me know, I'm going to France in 1 month!!! You can avoid overloading your supply using some quick maths. Otherwise you might have to contact the campsite's reception to check if a fuse has blown. You won't be popular! If you're a camping purist and you're wondering why on earth anyone would want to use electricity while camping and what you can use an electric hook-up for, here's the full list of ideas from the infographic above! Hi, I enjoy camping but for the first time am trying an EHU pitch. I see you can run hair straighteners and hairdryer, I only intend to use one at a time but can you tell me how I find the kW on hair straighteners.
The hairdryer states kW so I should be ok on a 10 amp supply, but are straighteners more or less and how do I actually find out? What on the straighteners am I actually looking for to determine the kW on them. You should find a sticker somewhere on the hair straighteners that tells you the voltage V and either the current A or wattage W or kW.
You can calculate the wattage by multiplying V x A, or calculate the current by dividing wattage by voltage. Most straighteners are lower powered than hairdryers though, so you should be fine if you have a 10A supply. Rechargeable or gas hair straighteners are an alternative option. Hi we are going on our 1st tent camping trip in a couple of weeks and wondered if we would be ok to use a 28inch tv with a portable digital aerial on the electric hook up?
It states that the site has 16A hook up. Most modern flatscreens and particularly LED ones have pretty minimal power requirements, and will be fine on any 10A or 16A hook-up. While motorhome and caravan owners can tuck themselves away to enjoy their favourite shows, sound travels further from tents - so do be considerate!
Most campers would probably prefer being away from the telly: I am sure this is going to sound like a stupid question, but I didn't want to order cable and then find that it does not fit when I arrive. There's no such thing as a stupid question Richard: Most sites abroad should be the same these days, but some will still use the older style 2-pin connector.
Continental adaptors are cheap and would be worth getting if you're planning to go abroad often. Camping for Beginners Why go camping? Camping statistics How to plan a camping trip Equipment and gear: What is an electric hook up? Simply run your cable to your temporary home and hey presto! What are the common amp ratings? What do electric hook up cables look like? Protection against condensation 3.
Protected against water spray from all directions 6. Protection against low pressure water jets all directions 7. Protection against strong water jets and waves 8. Protected against temporary immersion 9. Protected against prolonged effects of immersion under pressure Using an electric hook up in a caravan, motorhome or campervan vs using in a tent Electric hook ups are designed for use in motorhomes, campervans, caravans and tents.
Alternative ways to power your gadgets while camping EHUs aren't the only way to get access to electrical power while camping, there are alternatives. Leisure batteries Leisure batteries can be used to provide a steady stream of power for appliances such as lighting, however you will find that compared to electrical hook up they are certainly not as reliable or convenient. Solar power Solar panels are brilliant eco friendly alternatives for those on extended trips and can be fixed to the roof of a caravan, motorhome or campervan relatively simply.
Generators Another option is a generator, however they're not welcome on many campsites due to being noisy. What gear do I need and where should I buy it? Risks and dangers of using an electrical hook up When working with electricity in a potentially wet environment, it's important to take the necessary precautions to ensure that you are doing so safely. Brilliant for storing deli foods and meats, adapter for the car lighter socket and a regular plug.
Would be great to cut down grocery expenses if you could keep things for a couple of days. Where are you entering the country? Are you planning to bring your own tent and camping gear or buy it here? You can certainly get them. A cheaper option is to buy a insulated cool box Chilly bin, Esky that you can discard at the end of your trip. All of your saved places can be found here in My Trips.
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