Raise the blower motor up to the ceiling, then push its plug into the electrical receptacle inside the housing. Hold the fan's plastic grille close to the ceiling. Slip the grille's mounting wires into the slots inside the fan housing.
If the grille doesn't hold tight against the ceiling, spread apart its mounting wires to create more tension. Skip to main content. Get the latest news, updates and offers from This Old House to your inbox. Can escalate to challenging, depending on how easy it is to run the duct to the outdoors. Required Tools Shopping List. Want to hire a pro for this project? This Old House has partnered with HomeAdvisor to connect you with trusted home improvement pros! Remove the knockout hole on the side of the fan's housing and attach a cable connector. Slide the four metal brackets into the tabs protruding from the sides of the vent fan.
Set the vent fan down into place between the joists, centered on the ceiling hole. Use foil duct tape; unlike fabric duct tape, it won't deteriorate over time. Fully extend the brackets until they come in contact with the sides of the joists. Mark the hole location on the siding, using the reference measurements. Cut the duct hole through the house wall using a 4-inch hole saw. After securing the wall cap to the outside wall, move into the attic.
Grab the free end of the flexible exhaust duct and carefully stretch it to the outside wall. Attach the duct end to the wall cap's connector duct with foil duct tape. Fasten the inch-long connector duct to the wall cap with foil duct tape. Secure the motor to the housing with the screws removed from it earlier. Push up on the grille until it's tight against the ceiling.
Turn the power back on and test the fan. How to Install a Bathroom Fan. This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows how to properly install a roof-mounted bath-fan vent. This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey shows how to install a new water heater when there's no Tuck all of the wires back into the electrical splice box and replace the cover. Complete the outdoor work. If you replaced your old duct pipe with a newer, bigger pipe, you will also need to install a larger vent cap on your roof or sidewall.
Take whatever safety precautions are necessary for working at a height. Remove the old vent cap and use a saw to enlarge the opening to the size of the new duct pipe. Secure in place with sheet metal screws and seal around the edges with caulk. Secure the new vent cap over the end of the duct pipe.
If the vent pipe is on the roof, replace any shingles that may have come loose. Return to the bathroom and install the motor blower assembly by plugging it into the receptacle and screwing to secure. Attach the decorative plastic grille, then turn the power back on to test if your new bathroom fan is working. I have ventilation in my bathroom, can I still install an exhaust fan? Yes you can, and yes you should. Ventilation only blows "bathroom air" around the house - exhaust takes that air and ejects it outside. It is important to create negative pressure in bathrooms and kitchens by forcing air out of the room through the vent, which in turn draws "clean" air into the room.
Not Helpful 0 Helpful 6. Wire it utilizing the same circuit of the lights. Not Helpful 6 Helpful Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1. I am replacing a bathroom ventilation fan. The old fan has three wires, but the new fan has five wires two black, two white, and one green. What should I do with the double color wires? It sounds like your exhaust fan has a light built into it or another device.
Wire the two blacks and the two whites in the fan to the black and the white on your supply line. The green goes to your bare copper wire. If you want your fan and secondary device to be on separate switches, then you have to split them up and connect each black to its own switch. The whites depend on what you have for wiring. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. Don't use the old flap. Instead, install a new flap according to the new fan's instructions. Can we send the exhaust from a bathroom extractor fan out through a chimney flu?
You are extracting steam and depositing it into a chamber originally built for gases. This would cause any deposits on the chimney flu to be reduced to a running liquid that would find its way into the fireplace, or, if they're sealed off, staining and a very bad sooty smell. Can I install a bathroom fan over a bathtub or shower stall if I want? I have an unused shower pull switch in my bathroom, could I wire my fan to this? Answer this question Flag as Can I vent an exhaust fan in the attic to an existing vent in the roof? Should Bathtubs enclosure seams be caulked or uncorked? What can I do to remove the front of my fan if I want to clean it?
What if I don't have an attic in between floor? Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Already answered Not a question Bad question Other. Tips Be sure to get a fan that moves enough air for the size of bathroom you are venting. If you aren't comfortable doing electrical work, drywall or running the ducts, hire someone to do it for you.
You will end up saving time and frustration and it will be worth the money. Get a fan as quiet as you can afford, you will be happier in the end. Use a Stepladder for high ceilings. Buy the bathroom fan from a reputable retailer. Warnings If using a ladder, have someone support it whilst you are installing the fan.
How to Install a Bathroom Vent Fan
If you know nothing about electricity, it would be better to hire someone that knows about wiring. The wrong wire connected to the right or wrong wire can cause a lot of damage which could include a fire or killing you. If using power tools for any portion of this project, be sure you are familiar with their operation and follow the recommended safety procedures. Turn off the electricity supply before installing the appliance. Make sure you follow all instructions completely.
Bath Vent Overview
Things You'll Need Bathroom fan. Article Summary X To install a bathroom fan, go into your attic and clear away the insulation where the fan will go, then return to the bathroom and use a jigsaw to cut out the hole for the fan. Did this summary help you? Did you try these steps?
Upload a picture for other readers to see. Tell us more about it? Click here to share your story. Article Info wikiHow is a wiki similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are written collaboratively. Push the ground wires against the white wire set in the switch box, leaving room in the box for the remaining black wire sets and the switches. Take one wire lead from each switch and combine it with the black wire from the circuit breaker. Twist a wire nut onto the ends of this group and force it into the switch box. Pair a black wire from the exhaust fan unit with the remaining wire lead on a switch.
Twist the ends together and protect it with a wire nut. Repeat this with the remaining switches and fan function wires. Wrap a piece of electrical tape around each switch, covering the wire terminals. Mount each switch to the switch box and install the switch cover plate. The mounting bracket usually snaps into place, some units use a locking nut. If the mounting bracket snaps into place, insert a flat-head screwdriver into the space between the mounting bracket and the housing. Twist the screwdriver slightly, releasing the locking tab on the mounting bracket, and pry the bracket from the housing.
If a nut holds the fan bracket in place, simply remove the nut and lift the fan bracket out of the housing. Remove the screw holding the electrical compartment's cover in place. Remove the wire knockout, a round metal disk covering the wire-access port, with a screwdriver. Install a wire clamp in the wire-access port.
Buying a Bathroom Exhaust Fan
Slip the back-draft damper into the end of the discharge port. The back-draft damper prevents wind-driven outside air from entering the bathroom. Snap the discharge port onto the exhaust fan's housing and secure it to the housing with a building-code approved foil-backed duct tape.
Slide about six inches of the wire set through the housing's wire clamp and into its electrical compartment. Tighten the wire clamp. Position the fan housing against the ceiling joist or bracing, keeping the bottom of the housing against the drywall's surface. The bottom of the housing must not hang below the drywall.
How to Install a Bathroom Fan (with Pictures) - wikiHow
Run a screw or nail through the holes on the housing's mounting tabs. Wrap all bare copper ground wires around the green-colored screw. Twist the black wire from the fan switch and the wire lead labeled "fan" together and cover them with a wire nut. Do this again to the white wire from the fan wire set and the white "fan" lead. Repeat this step for each switched accessory. If one switch controls all fan functions, twist all labeled wire leads around the switch's black wire and all white leads against the white wire, then protect each wire set with a wire nut.
Fold all wire sets into the electrical compartment. Replace the compartment's cover. Ideally the discharge vent lets the duct run in a straight line with a slight uphill slope from the fan to the louver. Each bend in the duct increases air flow resistance and reduces fan efficiency. Northern climates should consider ice-dam possibilities before using a roof-mounted vent.
Ice dams sometimes occur when warm air moving through the ventilation system melts snow that collected above a roof-mounted discharge vent. When the bathroom exhaust fan turns off, sub-freezing exterior air freezes the melted snow.
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- Planning the Exhaust Fan System's Layout.
- How to Install a Bathroom Vent Fan | This Old House!
The resulting ice gathers under the shingles nearest the vent, eventually causing an ice dam. Trace the outline of the discharge vent's intake port on the mounting surface. When using a roof-or gable-mounted vent, trace the outline on the roof or gable from the attic side. This prevents accidentally cutting a roof truss or support beam. Space a soffit vent between a set of trusses.
How to Install a Bathroom Exhaust Fan
Cut around the opening's outline with the appropriate tool. Consider using a reciprocating saw when cutting through a wooden roof deck or gable siding and aviation snips when working with aluminum soffit material. Apply a bead of the appropriate sealant around the discharge vent's flange. Use roof sealant on roof-mounted vents and exterior-grade caulk on gable- and soffit-mounted vents. Secure the louver to the building with either screws or nails. Many technicians prefer to use flexible aluminum duct on a bathroom ventilation system.
This lightweight type of duct bends easily and cuts with a non-serrated knife. Choose the duct size, usually 3- or 4-inches wide, that matches the fan's discharge port. Place the duct's male end, the crimped end, into the discharge vent's intake port. Run the duct from the discharge port toward the fan housing. Insert the male end on each additional piece into the previous piece's female end. Cut the last piece to length with a non-serrated knife.
Slide the cut end over the fan's discharge port. Hold the duct in place with either a duct strap or hanging material. Place the first strap within two feet of the discharge vent and place an additional hanger every four feet. Use additional hanging material to lift any bellies in the duct, preventing excessive moisture from collecting in the low areas. Wrap a section of foil-backed duct tape, the same tape used to secure the discharge port, around each duct connection. Press the tape against the duct with either a squeegee or spoon.
This type of tape withstands heat and holds its shape better than cloth- or fiber-backed duct tape. Hold the fan motor against the housing and either snap it into place or tighten the housing's locking nut.